2013 Heater Core Replacement

[jomama]

My heater core started leaking inside the HVAC assembly. I saw the reference to the G8 shortcut that a user there posted. It involves simply cutting the passenger compartment side supply and return lines to avoid removing the dash. Reassembly consists of also cutting the lines on the new core, and installing hoses to connect the old and new sections of line. Seems like a pretty straight forward way to proceed. Has anyone here used this method? I’m interested in whether or not it proved to be an acceptable method of repair over time (e.g. didn’t succumb to vibrations, inadequate support, etc.). TIA!

[Sanford]

I believe on one of the FaceBook groups, someone un-crimped the heater tubes at the core and was able to replace one that way. I don’t know how they re-crimped it to hold the tubes in. If I ever have to replace one, I will make some kind of collar instead of trying to re-crimp it.

[jomama]

Thanks for the reply. Yeah, there was someone else here that did that too. He said he used some pliers and a screwdriver to reform the crimps. I’m not sure I trust myself to do it like that, but I can see the appeal. I might try pulling the bottom crimp loose and see how difficult it is.

[jomama]

So I finally got this done last weekend. After some thought, I opted to cut the existing lines under the dash instead of trying to uncrimp the old lines (though I chose to uncrimp the lower line going into the heater core to drain this section of the system once I uncoupled the heater hose disconnects near the water pump).

Undoing and reforming the crimps at the heater core was not difficult, so you could do it this way if you wanted. I thought it best to not disturb these joints on the new core so as to not potentially damage them…which turned out to be for nothing because the bottom one started leaking when I refilled the heater core. I simply used a small flat-tipped punch and hammer to “tighten” the leaky joint’s crimped collar and it stopped leaking.

For the 2011s to 2013s, the heater core is easily removed from its housing once you remove the dash interference (if you cut the lines, it slides right out and doesn’t hit anything along the way). To do this, you’ll need to remove:

1) Passenger trip appliqué
2) Passenger lower center console trim
3) Passenger side trim on the end of the dash
4) Upper glove box mounting screws
5) The glove box’s the rubber mat
6) The knee bolster (air bag). There are also two electrical connectors that mount to the bolster’s crossmember that you’ll need to disconnect (air bag and glove box light)
7) The glove box
8) HVAC ducting to the upper center vents
9) Passenger door blend actuator

5/8” heater hose works well (fits the OE lines snugly, and was just loose enough on the replacement lines to get the rubber line on without much difficulty.

When cutting the lines, ensure you set it up so your clamps don’t interfere with the HVAC ducting you have to re-install above the lines. I used a standard metal cutting wheel inside the car, and a tubing cutter on the replacement lines (unfortunately, there wasn’t enough room for using the cutter under the dash, so you’ll need to clean up the rough cuts with a file and 400-grit sandpaper).