How To: Adding an amplifier

Electronic systems, stereo and Holden iQ, wiring, it all goes here....
smwalker
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How To: Adding an amplifier

Post by smwalker »

Adding an Amplifier

Recently we were discussing how to get the front speakers to work on a members car when we came across the connector the police upfitters use for tapping into the speakers to have a police radio’s audio come out the front speakers. This connector, X267, is in the dash behind the glove box on 11-13 PPV’s. SInce all 4 speaker circuits run through this connector it is the ideal spot to add in an amplifier to pick up the output from the head unit and send it out to all four speakers,

This is especially useful for 2013 models because as we all know in this year model GM took the rear channel drivers out of the head units (but left in the wires and speakers) making the head units basically front channel only. Adding an amplifier could take that 2 channel output and send it out to 4 channels with some extra boost and in the case I will detail here adding DSP (Digital Sound Processing) to the system for a cleaner and more pleasing sound.

So the pictures and instructions I will detail below are in a 2011. Differences in glove compartment might be present on 12 and 13 models because of the added knee airbag. If you see anything majorly different that would affect the install I am detailing please mention it in a comment or post a pic of a 12/13 glove compartment if vastly different.

So first the connector. X267 is an 8 cavity connector that is blue in color. Once you take out the glove compartment you will see it attached to a bracket by the blower motor. Pictured below:
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Here it is disconnected:
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Here is the pinout of the connector:
ImageImage

Details on the connector:
Manufacturer: Aptiv (formerly Delphi)

Connectors:
Image
Male: 12064767 (Quantity 1)
Male Wire Lock: 12045690 (1)

Female: 12064766 (1)
Female Wire lock: 12064768 (2)

Clip Lock: 12052834 (1) Do not really need this as it's not a critical connector to double lock.


Terminals:
Image Image

Male: 12047581 18-16 Gauge wire (8)
Female: 12047767 18-16 Gauge wire (8)

Project Listing on Mouser:
https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/P ... 8898629254



So you just have to make up a harness to go to and from your amp. For 11/12 models you will have to send 8 wires to your amplifier(all 4 channels) but for 13’s you could really just get away with 4 wires going to your amp (from the front channels). Coming from the amplifier and back into the X267 plug you will want a beefy wire for this because that will be carrying a higher load from the amp. Since this is such a common thing they make a 9 conductor wire specifically for this purpose. It has the extra conductor in there for an amplifier turn on wire ( I won’t need with the amplifier I choose). A product like Stinger SGW992 speaker wire is a good choice. It is 18 gauge wire with a nice covering to protect the wires. Going to the amplifier I would think you could use some 20 gauge wire if you were not going to far. If you are mounting the amplifier in the trunk though may want to use 18 gauge for the long run.

Power and Ground

Many amps these days do not need an amplifier turn on wire to turn on. They now detect voltage at the speakers input and turn on when present. This is good for our cars since I have not been able to find a Radio “on” voltage signal. So all we need for the amplifier is 12 volt positive and ground. The 12 volt positive needs to be a high amp circuit. Luckily we got one right where we need it in the dash. In the passenger side kick panel there is a high amp circuit we can use very easily. Pictured here:

Image

It is part of the Upfitter kit and connects back to the extra battery. So if you have taken your extra battery out or did not get one that might be a problem but I still see a way to use it as you could just run a wire from the primary battery over to to the upfitter harness in the trunk and send power forward that way. Better than running power all the way up the car if you plan on mounting the amplifier in the glove compartment or under the seat.

Good news here is that many of us will already have the wire and connector needed to tap into the upfitters harness. Either we have the wire already plugged in under there or maybe we have taken it out and have it in a box somewhere? Either way the factory upfitter harness connector and wire iis fine to use, it is like 10 gauge so plenty beefy.
AUX POwer and Ground.png
AUX POwer and Ground.png (155.55 KiB) Viewed 2205 times
If you do not have it you can make up a connector with these parts:
Connector Body Yazaki 7123-4129-90
Terminals Yazaki 7116-3250

Male terminal if wanted to add ground to existing male connector: Yazaki 7114-3250

EDIT Febuary 2023 - Mouser now carries some Yazaki parts. They carry both the connector body and terminals listed for the power and ground above in small quantities


Amplifier Mounting

Traditionally Amplifiers are mounted in the trunk and wires strewn about the car getting the signal where it needs to be. I thought we had a real opportunity here with the X267 plug to do a nice simple upgrade to the radios signal without a lot of trouble. Then doing research on the amplifiers available today I found they have gotten super small over the years and with the popularity of the cross terrain style dune buggies many manufacturers are making amps that are water and dirt resistant. Meaning they can be mounted in less than ideal locations ( like under seats in areas that may see water).

I first thought it would be great to mount the amplifier inside the dash on the passenger side to keep everything on one area. I could not see a feasible way short of modifying the size of the glove compartment to accommodate. Did not want to do that. So I looked under the front passenger seat. This area would be good since it would be a short run of wires up to the X267 plug and the power and ground connectors in the right kick panel. Using the dimensions from the manufacturer's website I made up some scale models of a few amps. They fit pretty good under the passenger side seat in the area to the outside of the floor duct. And once you remove the thick jute underlayment that is in that area you got more than enough height to the seat rail for most any smaller amp.

Here is a mock up of the Rockford Fosgate T400X4ad amplifier under the passenger seat:
Image

Here is a mock up of the JL Audio RD400/4 amplifier under the passenger seat. Kinda tight, may have to cut into the underseat duct to make room fo the wires on the other end.
Image


The amplifier I finally chose is the Kicker KEY180.4 Amplifier. It is a 4 channel amplifier that outputs about 45 watts per channel. I have installed Infinity Kappa 62.11i speakers in my doors and they recommend 75 watts continuous. I would bet the factory head unit outputs about 15 watts per speaker so any amplifier is going to be an improvement. It also has DSP technology that adjust the amplifier in various ways. The Kicker amplifier was even smaller than the Rockford Fosgate one mocked up so I knew I would have no problem mounting it under the seat. Went and bought it (About $200), took it out of the box and OMG this thing was so small I was shocked. My thoughts soon turned back to mounting it in the dash. Still could not find a place to hide it up in the dash but decided to give it a try in the glove compartment. Fit great there and used up mostly dead space that was not being used anyway. Added benefit was I was able to use the wire harnesses that came with the amp, added on my Blue X267 connectors and tapped right into the X267 plug with no added wiring. Added about a foot of wire with the power connector and ground and was good to go.

Here it is mounted up and in place:
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Here is the input coming in:
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And the output and power plug going out the side of the glove compartment:
Image

Simple 4 bolt mounting, Have to drill some holes in the glove box shelf to tighten the bolts. After you take off the glove box door that is (easy, 2 pins holding it on).
Image
Image

So overall I think this would be a nice easy way for 13 owners to get 4 channels without having to get a new silver box. The added benefit would be an increase in power and the DSP with the kicker amplifier is the only one I have seen that has that in such a small package. We shall see what future products hold from other manufactures.

And as always I bought extra X267 connectors, terminals and wires so if you need me to make you up a harness with the connectors on there let me know.
Steve Walker
Azusa, CA
'11 PPV 9C3 Huron White
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Re: How To: Adding an amplifier

Post by Fudgehog »

Just want to make another shoutout to Steve here for his hard work and great guides. Yet another stellar write-up. I bought his harness, and it worked phenomenal.

I have a 13 so I did not technically need 8 wires, and already have a sub box in the trunk. I ended up just stacking the rear wires on the front channel, as 4 channel mode would not send output with wires on rear channel (switched to 2 channel mode ultimately) My amp was mounted to the sub box through the rear seat access hole.

Anyone looking for better sound quality I'd highly recommend buying a harness from Steve.

PS: The stock rear door speakers are not too shabby when amped, even without speaker grilles. A guy could definitely get away with decent sound even with all stock speakers. The tweeters in the dash are pretty decent stock as well.

Here's what mine looked like.
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Sartorius
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Re: How To: Adding an amplifier

Post by Sartorius »

Steve,

Have you run into any heat issues with the little amp being mounted in a closed glove box?
2012 9C3 Detective
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smwalker
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Re: How To: Adding an amplifier

Post by smwalker »

Have not had any issues. THis particular amp has a feature when it gets overheated it will adjust down to compensate and cool off. I had it up pretty high for about 3 hours and was just warm to the touch in there. Gain is only up about 1/4 way so I do not think I am pushing things all that hard. Will report during the summer to see what an overheated dash has on it.
Steve Walker
Azusa, CA
'11 PPV 9C3 Huron White
Sartorius
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Joined: Sun Jan 20, 2019 10:06 pm
Location: Utah

Re: How To: Adding an amplifier

Post by Sartorius »

Sounds good. Email sent about the amp cable.
2012 9C3 Detective
2015 GMC Acadia Denali
2010 Subaru Impreza
1986 Chevy K20 3/4 Ton
2007 Mazda 3 (sold)
2003 BMW 540i/6 speed manual (sold)
2006 Chevy Trailblazer EXT (sold)
Freak
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Re: How To: Adding an amplifier

Post by Freak »

Steve,

Do you have any wire harnesses left?
smwalker
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Re: How To: Adding an amplifier

Post by smwalker »

Da Freak got me on FB and will use up my last set of connectors, but got plenty of wire left if anyone wants me to make up a set, just have to order some more connectors.
Steve Walker
Azusa, CA
'11 PPV 9C3 Huron White
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Re: How To: Adding an amplifier

Post by Hesher »

Dang. If you ever make up some more sets I would love one...I'm not 100% with the crimping required.
2012 Caprice 9C1
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smwalker
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Re: How To: Adding an amplifier

Post by smwalker »

I kind of do them on a project by project basis. One you decide on where you are mounting your amp we can get final measurements and make up a cable.
Steve Walker
Azusa, CA
'11 PPV 9C3 Huron White
smwalker
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Location: Azusa,CA

Re: How To: Adding an amplifier

Post by smwalker »

Got some more connector supplies if anyone needs a wire made up let me know.
Steve Walker
Azusa, CA
'11 PPV 9C3 Huron White
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