Console swap what else do I need?

[Groundczero]

I have a 2012 p1c and I just scored this for $150 shipped.

g8.png (1.3 MiB) Viewed 16646 times

[CrashTestDummy]

Right off, it looks like you will want to get the e-brake cable and the connector at both ends and the shifter itself. You'll also want to make sure that comes with at least the connectors for the electrical bits, if not as much of the harnesses as possible.

The shifter seems to be the hardest part to get, for some reason.

[lastcall190]

Good deal IMO.

As stated, you will need the shifter assembly from a G8 or 9C3 (former would be way easier I imagine). You could utilize your 9C1 shifter wiring if you want, but try to get as much of the shifter as possible.

E-brake cable from a 9C3 (PN 92191009)
Center compartment for in front of shifter (PN 92206138)
Shifter trim (the PPV is a series 2 VE car more or less, and the G8 is a series 1, so the trim is flat (G8) vs curved (9C3); I used a manual transmission series 2 trim in Rado Silver, a stock 9C3 would also work, or there are other options from AU)

Extra assembly screws (I believe the size is M4.2-1.41 x 16mm). I got a box of 50 in 13mm length from clips and fasteners for $5 plus shipping, the dealer wanted almost 2 bucks a screw

As for the traction/sport/trunk switch depending on which route you go with shifter wiring, you will need to get some plugs. Steve Walker has a thread here with the proper part number, and a quick sample request from TE Connectivity and a few dozen terminals from Mouser Electronics later, you have yourself ingredients for the switch connection.

Tap shift discussion is its own topic, and I don't even know if I'm going to eventually go that route so I can't comment.

I just finished this up (sort of) a few weeks ago, so it's all fresh in my mind if you got any questions. Putting the console together is very much like a puzzle (some other user coined that description, it was spot on IMO).

Again, the parts listed above are what I personally used. There isn't only ONE way to do it, but I wanted as much of a straight bolt on affair as possible.

Enjoy, it is one of the best things I've done to the car bar none.

-J

[Groundczero]

The only reason I am doing it is for the AC to route to the back the wife complains that not enough air is getting back for the kid. What have you guys done with the redundant button controls is there a cover plate or block off plate, I was wondering if it is wide enough to make a cellphone holder there.

[lastcall190]

Then you'll need the y-shaped duct that goes under the console if yours doesn't come with it. 92263765

LMK if you get air to the back. I still don't have any, it's like a blend door is stuck, kind of a PITA since I wanted rear HVAC for the same reason. Thankfully the AC works so well in the rest of the car regardless that it doesn't get too hot (my kids are in it before 7am anyhow...).

Guys have cannibalized a stock switch, hit with some bondo, and painted over to match the trim bezel. Some guy up in CT made a little compartment out of some sheetmetal IIRC. I am planning on running the switch wires some day, for now it's just a void. If I have nothing in a cupholder, I just throw my phone in there. Otherwise in front of the shifter/on the passenger seat. My phone seems way too big to fit in that space, but I'd be interested to see what you come up with if you go that route.

-J

[Groundczero]

I have an idea for some sort of lowered area for the cell phone. One of the guys that rents from me does life size models for the comic book conventions I am gonna ask him about doing something and making a mold.

[Groundczero]

Good deal IMO.

As stated, you will need the shifter assembly from a G8 or 9C3 (former would be way easier I imagine). You could utilize your 9C1 shifter wiring if you want, but try to get as much of the shifter as possible.

-J

Can I use a shifter from a v6 g8 or must be a v8?

[lastcall190]

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/gm ... dhcw%3D%3D

Looks to be same PN for v6, v8, 9c3.

-J

[CrashTestDummy]

Good deal IMO.

As stated, you will need the shifter assembly from a G8 or 9C3 (former would be way easier I imagine). You could utilize your 9C1 shifter wiring if you want, but try to get as much of the shifter as possible.

E-brake cable from a 9C3 (PN 92191009)
Center compartment for in front of shifter (PN 92206138)
Shifter trim (the PPV is a series 2 VE car more or less, and the G8 is a series 1, so the trim is flat (G8) vs curved (9C3); I used a manual transmission series 2 trim in Rado Silver, a stock 9C3 would also work, or there are other options from AU)

Extra assembly screws (I believe the size is M4.2-1.41 x 16mm). I got a box of 50 in 13mm length from clips and fasteners for $5 plus shipping, the dealer wanted almost 2 bucks a screw

As for the traction/sport/trunk switch depending on which route you go with shifter wiring, you will need to get some plugs. Steve Walker has a thread here with the proper part number, and a quick sample request from TE Connectivity and a few dozen terminals from Mouser Electronics later, you have yourself ingredients for the switch connection.

Tap shift discussion is its own topic, and I don't even know if I'm going to eventually go that route so I can't comment.

I just finished this up (sort of) a few weeks ago, so it's all fresh in my mind if you got any questions. Putting the console together is very much like a puzzle (some other user coined that description, it was spot on IMO).

Again, the parts listed above are what I personally used. There isn't only ONE way to do it, but I wanted as much of a straight bolt on affair as possible.

Enjoy, it is one of the best things I've done to the car bar none.

-J

Thanks for posting the P/Ns. I've ordered those bits for my console project.

[lastcall190]

I think it was s/c'd cav that corrected the ebrake cable PN (I recall having another PN that led me to... well, not the cable). I believe he posted the correct one, which was very helpful. Credit to him on that one. FWIW 7zap.com has some pretty dang good parts diagrams. I normally shop through tascaparts but 7zap has cleared up nebulous information for me.

Got any other questions just put them here and I'll see what I can answer. Thanks.

Side note for the cable, IMO just drop the exhaust if you can when removing it from above the driveshaft. Take the 10 or so minutes to do it and pull the heat shields. Makes it 10000x easier.

-J