DOD Delete Chevy-Art

Tech discussions on the L77 6.0L V8.
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Chevy-Art
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DOD Delete Chevy-Art

Post by Chevy-Art » Mon Aug 02, 2021 8:14 pm

I have quite a few questions for you dod delete guys or anybody else. I am going with a 3 bolt LS3 cam (12631811).

I am going to keep the factory spring and pushrods. Those can be changed later on in the car if I have to. Also, a to do later on is the Trunion Kit.

I am also going to do the oil pressure relief valve in the pan. Do I have to change the oil pump? According to https://www.improvedracing.com/ls-oil-p ... -plug.html
• Typically, the secondary pressure relief valve may be deleted if:
o Active Fuel Management (AFM) and Variable Valve Timing (VVT) have been deleted
o The oil pump has been swapped to a standard volume oil pump

I recently got this code P0521, along with several others, and since I am already there, I am going to change the pressure sensor. I want to leave the oil pressure sensor filter off. Can I leave the oil pressure sensor filter off? I think that the 2500s come without the oil pressure sensor filter.

What I am keeping: for now, factory pushrods, springs, oil pump and rockers.

What I am changing: cam, lifters, lifter trays, 3-bolt cam gear, L92 Valley Pan, Cam Retainer Plate, LS2 Timing Chain Tensioner, Gaskets (Valve Cover, Head, Timing Chain, Water Pump, Oil Pan), Lifters, Head Bolts/Studs, Balancer Bolt, 3-Bolt Conversion Kit/Cam Bolt, Oil Pump Pickup Girdle Tube Pipe Hold Down, Gaskets, Sparks Plugs, Other Stuff?
I may have left something off or maybe forgot to add. Please feel free to add.
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CrashTestDummy
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Re: DOD Delete Chevy-Art

Post by CrashTestDummy » Sat Aug 07, 2021 8:13 pm

I've never done this, so take what I'm typing with a grain of salt. I have read up on it some, as I continue to waver between doing this and not doing it.

IIRC, the DOD engine has oil ports in the block that connect to the L78 lifter cover to route oil for switching between 4- and 8-cylinder mode. I think a L92 cover is just a flat plate. Does that flat plate fit against those oil ports enough to seal them off? If not, you may not have enough oil pressure in the top of the engine.

I think most just use the L78 cover and program out the DOD so you still have those ports sealed by the cover and corresponding gasket. The other thing I've seen is people carefully-tapping the ports and installing set screw plugs to seal them off, although I've also seen small oil gallery 'freeze plugs' that just tap into place to seal them off (I think Texas Speed has a kit that has these). Then, you're free to use whatever cover you want. Just a thought.
Gene Beaird,
Pearland, Texas
2012 Caprice 9C1
1992 B4C 1LE Camaro
2010 Tahoe PPV (her car)
1995 DGGM Impala SS
1996 BBB Impala SS (11-second DD)
1985 Firebird - 310 LS1 C Prepared autocross car.
And some others
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GammaFlat
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Re: DOD Delete Chevy-Art

Post by GammaFlat » Tue Aug 10, 2021 2:37 am

There are at least three ways to block off the oil passages directly under the valley cover (formerly feeding the lifters that are used by DOD). 1) cut threads in the individual holes and screw in allen "screws" with loctite, 2) Rivets (kits are made specifically for this purpose, 3) Valley cover that covers the holes with good seals (DOD Delete Valley Cover). It's important to block off these holes one way or another. Left unaddressed and not feeding DOD lifters will have deleterious affects on oil pressure.
You may not be able to use your factory pushrods but the good news is they're cheap. After tightening down your rocker, you need to see what length you need which is probably mostly impacted by the base circle of your cam... which may fortuitously be the same as your L77 cam (but then again, maybe not). I would not risk running the wrong length of push rods. I'd also not risk running the wrong springs (less risk here). Replacement springs, retainers and locks (beehives, for example) are relatively cheap and will likely buy you more RPM without valve float.
Look carefully at the capabilities of the cam you're getting and make sure your springs will not be the limiting factor in terms of the RPM. In other words, if your cam can peak your horsepower at 6200 RPM, make sure your springs will do it.
Oil Pump: Talk to the good folks at Melling. They have a few choices for you. As you assert, there is a relief valve (actually two). They can guide you. There is also a "barbell part" that you should consider replacing (see discussion here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-i ... k-out.html.
You're on a great adventure. Keep us current. This is the stuff that makes life fun. Enjoy!
Current: 2013 9C3, deeper trans pan, 12VoltSolutions Remote, Class III hitch, Android Auto capable radio

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Chevy-Art
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Re: DOD Delete Chevy-Art

Post by Chevy-Art » Thu Aug 19, 2021 6:46 pm

CrashTestDummy wrote:
Sat Aug 07, 2021 8:13 pm
I've never done this, so take what I'm typing with a grain of salt. I have read up on it some, as I continue to waver between doing this and not doing it.

IIRC, the DOD engine has oil ports in the block that connect to the L78 lifter cover to route oil for switching between 4- and 8-cylinder mode. I think a L92 cover is just a flat plate. Does that flat plate fit against those oil ports enough to seal them off? If not, you may not have enough oil pressure in the top of the engine.

I think most just use the L78 cover and program out the DOD so you still have those ports sealed by the cover and corresponding gasket. The other thing I've seen is people carefully-tapping the ports and installing set screw plugs to seal them off, although I've also seen small oil gallery 'freeze plugs' that just tap into place to seal them off (I think Texas Speed has a kit that has these). Then, you're free to use whatever cover you want. Just a thought.
It is all helpful information, whether for me or someone else. The L92 valley cover has the O-rings, 12598832. I also bought these, https://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/mercha ... arch=blind
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Re: DOD Delete Chevy-Art

Post by Chevy-Art » Thu Aug 19, 2021 7:18 pm

GammaFlat wrote:
Tue Aug 10, 2021 2:37 am
There are at least three ways to block off the oil passages directly under the valley cover (formerly feeding the lifters that are used by DOD).
2) Rivets (kits are made specifically for this purpose,
3) Valley cover that covers the holes with good seals (DOD Delete Valley Cover).

You may not be able to use your factory pushrods but the good news is they're cheap.
I'd also not risk running the wrong springs (less risk here).

Oil Pump: Talk to the good folks at Melling. They have a few choices for you. As you assert, there is a relief valve (actually two).
There is also a "barbell part" that you should consider replacing
You're on a great adventure. Keep us current. This is the stuff that makes life fun. Enjoy!
I ended up buying the rivets and the L92 valley cover. It is overkill really. The valley cover would of been sufficient. I don't remember where I read this and it may be bad information, but supposedly all Gen IV blocks come with the oil valley towers or passages under the cover. And GM has been using just the cover with the o-rings. I found out that the LS3 and the L77 use the same pushrods, 7.385. I did get new springs, PAC-1218. I am going to keep the original oil pump. I know about the one in the pan, but where is the other relief valve? I also know about that barbell, but that will have to be done later on. Thanks for the help.
PS I had to go look up "deleterious".
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GammaFlat
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Re: DOD Delete Chevy-Art

Post by GammaFlat » Sat Aug 21, 2021 12:42 am

I found this rivet system the other day for 20 bucks: https://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/mercha ... arch=blind

My buddy is convinced we need to thread the holes and install allen screws (with loctite). Who am I to argue? I guess that allows me to use a plain flat valley cover?!

Story of the two relief valves: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mo4FSUmHj0I

Good to know about the push rod length. I have a spare set from an LS3 but depending on my cam choice - more specifically the base circle..., I may need to get a different length.

I think the original oil pump will likely be fine.. especially if you put spacers adjacent to the "oil pump relief spring" - see video above. The barbell should be accessible from the front of the block and is pretty cheap. I'll be doing it for sure. It's probably easier if the engine is out (which will be true for me).

Sorry about the language issues... I work shift work that can have a "deleterious" impact on sleep patterns.. and therefor, my brain. ;)
Current: 2013 9C3, deeper trans pan, 12VoltSolutions Remote, Class III hitch, Android Auto capable radio

CrashTestDummy
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Re: DOD Delete Chevy-Art

Post by CrashTestDummy » Tue Aug 31, 2021 2:40 pm

GammaFlat wrote:
Sat Aug 21, 2021 12:42 am
I found this rivet system the other day for 20 bucks: https://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/mercha ... arch=blind

My buddy is convinced we need to thread the holes and install allen screws (with loctite). Who am I to argue? I guess that allows me to use a plain flat valley cover?!

<SNIP>
I know of at least one member here who did the allen screw trick with his engine in the car. He lined the lifter valley with towels, and was very careful about where the cuttings went. He seems to have had no issues with the engine afterward, so that mod method can work. Just be careful and stay clean. Allen screws peened into place is probably the method I'd use, engine in, or out.
Gene Beaird,
Pearland, Texas
2012 Caprice 9C1
1992 B4C 1LE Camaro
2010 Tahoe PPV (her car)
1995 DGGM Impala SS
1996 BBB Impala SS (11-second DD)
1985 Firebird - 310 LS1 C Prepared autocross car.
And some others
Do YOU have my SPID?

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Chevy-Art
Posts: 39
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Re: DOD Delete Chevy-Art

Post by Chevy-Art » Wed Sep 01, 2021 3:12 am

Thanks for the info. I always read about shimming the oil pump and I did not understand what was meant by that. I bought the Lingenfelter rivets and bought the Astro Pneumatic Tool 1423 1/4" Heavy Duty 13" Hand Riveter from Amazon. I would like to do the allen screws but I am too nervous about metal shavings. Or I would drill and tap incorrectly. I also used this, recommended by another member on here. https://www.improvedracing.com/ls-oil-p ... -plug.html
So far this has been a lot of work. I am in the cleaning and re-assembly portion of it. I hope to start putting it back together this weekend. Before I started this I got these codes p0336, p0521, U2100, and c0045. One code is for Crankshaft Position Sensor 'A' Circuit Range/Performance and the other is Engine oil pressure sensor/switch. I am going to replace both since I am already there. I do plan on leaving the little filter screen that is under the pressure sensor out.
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Re: DOD Delete Chevy-Art

Post by Chevy-Art » Sat Sep 18, 2021 3:49 am

I am done. I finished on the 8th of Sep. It was fun, challenging and rewarding. Now on to the tuning. Here are pics of the rivets:
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GammaFlat
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Re: DOD Delete Chevy-Art

Post by GammaFlat » Sun Sep 19, 2021 12:20 am

Congrats. You gotta love these engines. I find working on them fun. I have a 5.3 in the garage that's looking for an engine bay.
Current: 2013 9C3, deeper trans pan, 12VoltSolutions Remote, Class III hitch, Android Auto capable radio

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