New Caprice - Discussion forums

It's been one month since I installed the DoD removal module made by range technologies. It's used on all Gm v8's with cylinder deactivation and it's worked flawlessly so far. I recommend it for those that don't have the time or money for the lifter swaps. Eventually I will do a cam and lifter change, among other things. But I just bought the car about two months ago. I didn't like the way it ran with DoD. Now it's perfect.

Neat device but it's just a toggle switch away...

Very new to this, but what software is that? My dealer would not disable the DOD, and in fact said he would not know how even if he decided to do it. Of course he could be an idiot....

I had an independent guy offer $400 to disable DOD and do a "street tune". I admit being old. In my mind a street tune was turning the distributor a few more degrees before TDC and replacing the points with an electronic gizmo!

$400 is about the norm for a one of tune on anything LS based and a lot of them are available mail order at this point meaning you require a way to load it up into your PCM also. I ended up going that route because it was just slightly more to do that and I have a unlimited retune package which is attached to the caprice vin# but I can also use the same device on anything else GM based by purchasing another vin# license. The plug in DOD removal device seems overpriced for the single thing it does although obviously it has ease of use/removal in mind and could be used for whatever vehicle you have.

Until I swap the cam and get an actual tune on a dyno, I disconnected the vacuum sensor on the brake booster. I have the CEL but I know what it's for. Cost: $0

So when your CEL is going on for other reasons how do you know that?

paul54 wrote:Very new to this, but what software is that? My dealer would not disable the DOD, and in fact said he would not know how even if he decided to do it. Of course he could be an idiot....

I had an independent guy offer $400 to disable DOD and do a "street tune". I admit being old. In my mind a street tune was turning the distributor a few more degrees before TDC and replacing the points with an electronic gizmo!

This is HPTuners. I like to modify my cars so I bought the software and learned how to tune (properly) so I would never have to pay $300-500 again each time I made a change. The dealer will not do this as it loosely falls in the modification of the emissions equipment.

At the end of the day, all gas engines require the proper fuel and spark. You are really doing the same fundamental thing but using tables and keystrokes instead of turning a screwdriver on an air screw or clocking the distributor. I'm older too and prefer the new method much more!!

xcidmigs wrote:So when your CEL is going on for other reasons how do you know that?

Unless the car is running like crap or poor fuel mileage, I don't. Just have to scan it once in a while. Also a nuisance to cancel the check engine message in the DIC every time it's started. I can live with it until tuned.

Interesting thread in the G8 Forum today....don't know if this is how AFM works in PPV, but in G8, supposedly when selecting Sport while at cruise speed--6th gear in lockup (which will cause trans to go to 5th)--then upshifting to 6th, which puts trans in Manual, the AFM is then deactivated in 6th gear only. At least that's how I read the bulletin cited in the thread. This may only apply to some G8's, not clear.

http://www.g8board.com/forums/5-v8-engi ... -mode.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I had wondered whether it might be possible to put in a circuit related to shifter position so that going to manual would prevent AFM from activating, but was told it could not be done, but without an explanation of why. The vacuum disruption approach is interesting, if there was just a way to suppress the CEL so it could still function as a monitor for all possible malfunctions.

Navy Lifer wrote: The vacuum disruption approach is interesting, if there was just a way to suppress the CEL so it could still function as a monitor for all possible malfunctions.

That's an interesting idea, maybe just pull the sensor out of the brake booster and plug the hole, leaving the sensor to atmosphere. That may throw another code though (low vacuum?). Maybe try to modify the circuit of the sensor so that we trick the PCM into thinking vacuum is too low for AFM to activate but not so low it thinks there's a leak. Maybe just a resistor may work.

But for all that trouble, a tune is still likely the easiest and cheapest way to go.