2013 TR6060 Swap in Progress: Shifter Location Issue

[BigMike0147]

Hi all. I'm hoping to get some insight from some of the guys that have done a manual swap in their 2011-13 cars. I've tried researching caprice and G8 swaps, but I'm not finding a lot of information on shifter placement. A lot of people don't appear to have my same issue, but it's hard to be certain.

My swap is utilizing a 2010 Camaro TR6060 with an MGW shifter. Last night was the first night trying to lift the shifter into place after attaching the transmission to the engine. I expected that the shifter would sit further back due to the transmission being potentially longer (maybe?) than the G8. However, my shifter is about 2" too far back, and this is causing it to sandwich in the tunnel when lifting the trans into place. Has anyone else experienced this? When researching the swap, At one point, I did stumble across one person who discussed modifying the shifter rod/arms to make it work better, but of course, I can't find that link now. I'm currently 3D printing a prototype for a modified side arm now to see if that's an option. However, if there is something I'm missing on why this may be sitting far back, I'd love to hear an easier solution. The shifters current location is not feasible as it puts the shifter too far back for everything in the console.

Thanks in advance for any firsthand experience or leads.

[Pursuit]

Maybe this will help...

https://www.newcaprice.com/forum/viewto ... 060#p33294

I just searched Camaro TR6060. There are other links also.

Regards,
Maurice

[BigMike0147]

Thanks Maurice. This one is a little different being that they used a sequential shifter in a 14-17 chassis. However, I think I determined what I want to do with this shifter. I was able to 3D print prototypes of shorter arms for the MGW shifter to see what length should be perfect for the spacing. As far as I can see, 0.75-0.875" should put my shifter pretty centered and allow me to use the dust boot for the shifter in the correct location.

I'm attaching a couple of photos to illustrate what I mean. With the factory arms, the rear mounting holes in the body my have been possible to elongate, but the body of the shifter was hitting the tunnel. With this placement, things are much more centered. Please ignore the masking tape around the arm body. MGW recommends use of Dynamat on the linkage to limit vibration and it's a mess to handle.

So the plan is now to cut these arms (buying some as backup) and weld them shorter. I'll have to do the same for the central linkage as well. So this may not be the solution that works well for everyone, but hopefully it can work out.