New Caprice - Discussion forums

2012 9C1
All windows (including rear) do work from drivers door control

The problem:
Rear windows do not work from rear door controls

1) The plug under the passenger seat is connected to the wired plug, not the dummy
2) The child locks are turned to unlock
3) The rear lockout button at the driver control does not allow rear window control in either position
4) There is no 6N5 code on my decal
5) The rear door window switches “feel” normal - click up, click down

Does anyone know what I’m missing here, what else can I try or check?

searching would have netted you a few topics on the the door wires ripping apart in the boot for the drivers door in the boot

Maybe the PD that had it had the switches unplugged or removed the panels and never bothered to plug them back in. I think I also remember that there may have been dummy switches installed there on some years?

s/c'd cav wrote: ↑Tue Jun 11, 2019 2:08 am searching would have netted you a few topics on the the door wires ripping apart in the boot for the drivers door in the boot

Yes I did read that during my extensive search prior to posting, however I assumed that because all my windows work from the drivers door controls, there is not a problem with the wiring in my drivers door boot. I could be wrong here, of course.

I will also add that I did remove the rear door panels to hook up my lock and latch cables and verified at the same time that the window switches were plugged into the harnesses

CTH wrote: ↑Tue Jun 11, 2019 3:17 pm

s/c'd cav wrote: ↑Tue Jun 11, 2019 2:08 am searching would have netted you a few topics on the the door wires ripping apart in the boot for the drivers door in the boot

Yes I did read that during my extensive search prior to posting, however I assumed that because all my windows work from the drivers door controls, there is not a problem with the wiring in my drivers door boot. I could be wrong here, of course.

I will also add that I did remove the rear door panels to hook up my lock and latch cables and verified at the same time that the window switches were plugged into the harnesses

SORRY ! i miss read that , but i believe some have seen the wires break in the same fashion

as well , anything from the switches being unplugged , motors unplugged , but that wouldnt be as likely as a broken power wire or bad switches


i havent seen anything on dummy switches

I don't know how applicable this is, BUT for my 2012 Tahoe PPV the rear switches were dummy switches. The wiring was plugged in and the switch felt genuine, but there was no guts in the switch itself.

The switches seem like a likely culprit here, especially if they can “feel” normal but have no actual guts. I will try jumping past the switch and see if that is it. Thanks guys, I’ll post up if I resolve