The no budget build - manual, LSA, SS

Tell us about your new PPV, show us some pictures, let us know how you did what you did!
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s/c'd cav
Posts: 1382
Joined: Mon May 30, 2016 3:12 am
Location: PHOENIX AZ

Re: The no budget build - manual, LSA, SS

Post by s/c'd cav »

whos interchiller kit did you get ?
fuzzkill
Posts: 152
Joined: Sat Feb 04, 2017 4:19 pm

Re: The no budget build - manual, LSA, SS

Post by fuzzkill »

s/c'd cav wrote: Mon Oct 11, 2021 3:25 pm whos interchiller kit did you get ?
It's the FI interchiller stage 2 kit along with their SS/G8 reservoir
https://fiinterchillers.com/product/interchiller/
s/c'd cav
Posts: 1382
Joined: Mon May 30, 2016 3:12 am
Location: PHOENIX AZ

Re: The no budget build - manual, LSA, SS

Post by s/c'd cav »

fuzzkill wrote: Mon Oct 11, 2021 3:39 pm
s/c'd cav wrote: Mon Oct 11, 2021 3:25 pm whos interchiller kit did you get ?
It's the FI interchiller stage 2 kit along with their SS/G8 reservoir
https://fiinterchillers.com/product/interchiller/
i thought my friend was running the stage 2 , and wondered why you had extra parts , he is only using the stage 1 ! LOL

out of all the times ive been there to help work on the car , and the couple times the ac system has been open , ive got no idea why he hasnt want to install the stage 2 kit he has sitting on the parts shelf , ill never know !! :(
fuzzkill
Posts: 152
Joined: Sat Feb 04, 2017 4:19 pm

Re: The no budget build - manual, LSA, SS

Post by fuzzkill »

Finally got a ZL1 lid, not sure if I got lucky or if they are finally coming back into stock. But I paid no markup on it so I'm happy, hopefully I can sell my CTS-V lid and maybe even turn a profit :lol:

Going to order a spacer for the lid as well, which will better insulate it from the engine heat, as well as improve airflow to the rear cylinders. Even with the chiller, the lid soaks a lot of engine bay heat and the IAT is slow to react/recover.

I am moving this weekend, so unsure of when I will be able to install but hopefully it won't take too long to get things situated. I'm packing my whole shop into the garage under the new house, but it should work ok. New garage has a dedicated workspace, and workspace + garage sq ft is actually larger than my current shop. Just no ceiling height for traditional lifts. I have a set of quick jacks that I will be using until I can build another proper detached garage/shop.

I also have the next two projects lined up that will be fighting for my free time
-Finish cleaning/prepping the 2013 Caprice V6 I got at auction for sale
-Picked up a 2017 Toyota 86 with a hole in the block. Going to order a replacement motor and install. Then resell
fuzzkill
Posts: 152
Joined: Sat Feb 04, 2017 4:19 pm

Re: The no budget build - manual, LSA, SS

Post by fuzzkill »

Two months later, back from the dead.

I have moved to North Florida, and gotten (mostly) settled in my new home and workspace. On the base floor of the new place, there is a 30x36 garage, with a 30x19 workshop attached in the next room over. I lose the ceiling height for my lifts, but when you add the garage and workshop square footage it is actually more room than my previous 30x40 shop. Having a dedicated space for vehicles and dedicated workspace is really nice too, rather than everything being on top of each other in the old shop. Workshop was already air conditioned/heated, and we upgraded the unit so now the entire garage has HVAC as well.

Long term, I am going to build another detached garage. But for now, this will do just fine.

I christened the new garage with the Toyota 86 motor swap. Pulled the old motor and dropped the new one in without much fuss. Car is ready for sale. I also got the 2013 V6 Caprice cleaned up a bit and ready for sale.

With those projects out of the way, I could get back to work on my car.


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I have a new ZL1 lid, 10mm lid spacer, and a Rife fast acting IAT sensor. The Rife sensor is 3/8 NPT thread, and they don't offer it in M14 like the factory IAT. The best solution would be to turn the sensor down on a lathe, and then use a die to cut it to M14. I don't (yet) have a lathe, and the lid was already off the car so I drilled and tapped the lid for 3/8" NPT. Any type of adapter bushing would pull the sensor out of the air flow, and if anything you want it farther into the air flow (and away from the heat soak coming off the lid). You can see that the Rife sensor sticks out slightly farther, as well as having no shield like the OE sensor.

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I was worried about hood clearance, but even with the 10mm lid spacer I didn't have to have the lid milled at all. If anything, I could have milled the lid and then used the 20mm spacer. Hard to believe I had to trim the cowl for the CTS-V lid without a spacer and this thing just clears everything beautifully.

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I also took the time to install the Elite Engineering catch can that I should have installed earlier.

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Few new heater hoses to accommodate the new routing, and everything is all wrapped up.

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s/c'd cav
Posts: 1382
Joined: Mon May 30, 2016 3:12 am
Location: PHOENIX AZ

Re: The no budget build - manual, LSA, SS

Post by s/c'd cav »

be sure and let us know if that sensor actually works any faster ?
fuzzkill
Posts: 152
Joined: Sat Feb 04, 2017 4:19 pm

Re: The no budget build - manual, LSA, SS

Post by fuzzkill »

s/c'd cav wrote: Thu Dec 30, 2021 5:03 pm be sure and let us know if that sensor actually works any faster ?
From my test drive around town it is a huge difference. It comes back down just as fast as it goes up when you get on it. Much quicker recovery from after car is restarted as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8DcKpAdaVJY
This is a good promo video for the sensor.
s/c'd cav
Posts: 1382
Joined: Mon May 30, 2016 3:12 am
Location: PHOENIX AZ

Re: The no budget build - manual, LSA, SS

Post by s/c'd cav »

fuzzkill wrote: Thu Dec 30, 2021 5:26 pm
s/c'd cav wrote: Thu Dec 30, 2021 5:03 pm be sure and let us know if that sensor actually works any faster ?
From my test drive around town it is a huge difference. It comes back down just as fast as it goes up when you get on it. Much quicker recovery from after car is restarted as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8DcKpAdaVJY
This is a good promo video for the sensor.
i showed this all to a friend , and he is refusing to drill out his lid , or his 20mm spacer to add it

but yet he always bitches about intake temps , lol
fuzzkill
Posts: 152
Joined: Sat Feb 04, 2017 4:19 pm

Re: The no budget build - manual, LSA, SS

Post by fuzzkill »

Next piece of the puzzle is here.

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Found a great deal on a Stewart EMP pump kit. The kit was for a Camaro but the bracket was close enough I was able to modify it to work on my car where I wanted it.

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First step, remove the old pump

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You can see the huge size difference between the Bosch pump and the EMP pump. EMP pump is fed by 12AWG wire and has a built in relay and controller. It supports canbus, but this one has just been programmed to default to max RPM if there is no data signal (only IGN).

So the pump has to be behind the passenger bumper, since my reservoir is in the cowl above and the pump needs to be gravity fed, and cannot be run dry. I originally had the Bosch pump mounted onto the siren bracket, and it just barely cleared in between everything else. There was no way the EMP pump would fit there. In addition, there are only 2 orientations for mounting the EMP pump, you can't just mount it any direction.

I really wanted to keep the siren, but as it was mounted nothing was going to work. Even with the siren out, space was still tight when you consider the size of the hoses coming off the pump and the directions they needed to go. Finally I removed the overflow tank, and that gave me the space needed.

I ended up tucking the pump right up against the frame rail, and then made some new brackets for the siren, that tie in the core support. With the pump under the frame rail, and the siren butted tight against the pump, it all cleared the fender liner and bumper, while having great access to the inlet and outlet of the pump for connections.

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I ordered a cheap aluminum overflow bottle, that will fit where the OE overflow filler neck was. Need to figure a bracket for it but aside from that everything is back together.

Only one thing left on my checklist before I am ready for the dyno again -
Going to switch my BAP signal from boost reference to throttle reference. Should be relatively simple, and will probably get taken care of tomorrow.
fuzzkill
Posts: 152
Joined: Sat Feb 04, 2017 4:19 pm

Re: The no budget build - manual, LSA, SS

Post by fuzzkill »

Well, that took entirely too long to get back on the dyno.

Better late than never.

Timing was *extremely* aggressive on the old tune, which explains the better than expected numbers for a stock pulley 6.2L. Previously made ~615whp/570wtq.
Brought the car up to Charles Barber @ V8muscle.net for the retune. We kept the timing a bit more conservative for the sake of reliability and consistency.

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https://youtube.com/shorts/WcsJTcjhb5c

Very happy with the numbers, and knowing it's a much safer setup now. I've been avoiding pushing it too hard previously because I knew the tune wasn't right.

Final numbers
690whp / 651 wtq
93 octane, E85 isn't readily available around me. I'm sure the numbers on E85 would be even more impressive.
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