Evan's waterless coolant
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Evan's waterless coolant
Has anyone tried this waterless coolant before or have any knowledge of it? I've been thinking about making the switch to it since. Jay leno runs it in his vehicles. Product says lifetime warranty on product as well as lower operating temps and better performance due to lower temps. Want to run my car at 160° to 180°. Any input would be helpful.
Re: Evan's waterless coolant
I would think that your thermostat would regulate the temperature....Most of the water "cooler" products, RED LINE Water Wetter, Royal Purple additive etc. help to transfer the heat out of your cooling system quicker. These products won't regulate your temperature.
Racers will sometimes use a restrictor plate in place of a thermostat, but that takes trial and error, knowledge of the water pump flow rate, radiator cap pressure, radiator size....
Regards,
Maurice
Racers will sometimes use a restrictor plate in place of a thermostat, but that takes trial and error, knowledge of the water pump flow rate, radiator cap pressure, radiator size....
Regards,
Maurice
Maurice Sheil
mhsheil@gmail.com
2011 Caprice Phantom Black 9C3
2012 Impala 9C1
1995 9C1 Caprice
1996 GMC Sierra C1500
1996 Chevrolet K2500 Extended Cab, long box, 454, 91,000 rust free miles
1974 SJ Grand Prix 455 well optioned with factory moon roof
mhsheil@gmail.com
2011 Caprice Phantom Black 9C3
2012 Impala 9C1
1995 9C1 Caprice
1996 GMC Sierra C1500
1996 Chevrolet K2500 Extended Cab, long box, 454, 91,000 rust free miles
1974 SJ Grand Prix 455 well optioned with factory moon roof
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- Location: Pearland, Texas
Re: Evan's waterless coolant
Correct Maurice. These cars run hot for mileage and emissions. To get the vehicle to run cooler, you'll need to install a cooler opening-temp thermostat and probably program the cooling fans to come on sooner. The way everything is now so interdependent, I bet there are some other things you'll have to program to keep the CELs from coming on.
Gene Beaird,
Pearland, Texas
2012 Caprice 9C1
1992 B4C 1LE Camaro
2018 Tahoe PPV (her car)
1995 DGGM Impala SS
1985 Firebird - 310 LS1 C Prepared autocross car.
1980 Bluebird Wanderlodge
And some others
Do YOU have my SPID?
Pearland, Texas
2012 Caprice 9C1
1992 B4C 1LE Camaro
2018 Tahoe PPV (her car)
1995 DGGM Impala SS
1985 Firebird - 310 LS1 C Prepared autocross car.
1980 Bluebird Wanderlodge
And some others
Do YOU have my SPID?
Re: Evan's waterless coolant
I did some reading of the Evan's waterless coolant. One interesting answer to an FAQ and tech info.... "Your water temp may be hotter than before". Due to the efficiency of the heat transfer properties. Interesting....Their explanation being that the internal metal temperature is less while the waterless coolant is able to better transfer the heat away from the metal parts.
Maurice
Maurice
Maurice Sheil
mhsheil@gmail.com
2011 Caprice Phantom Black 9C3
2012 Impala 9C1
1995 9C1 Caprice
1996 GMC Sierra C1500
1996 Chevrolet K2500 Extended Cab, long box, 454, 91,000 rust free miles
1974 SJ Grand Prix 455 well optioned with factory moon roof
mhsheil@gmail.com
2011 Caprice Phantom Black 9C3
2012 Impala 9C1
1995 9C1 Caprice
1996 GMC Sierra C1500
1996 Chevrolet K2500 Extended Cab, long box, 454, 91,000 rust free miles
1974 SJ Grand Prix 455 well optioned with factory moon roof
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Re: Evan's waterless coolant
does it actually say "water temp" in their FAQ/promo material, or is it "coolant temp"....?
Bill Harper
inov8r@windstream.net
inov8r@windstream.net
Re: Evan's waterless coolant
Now there has been a lot of controversy back 20+ years ago regarding engine coolant temps.
Back in the day (carburation), everyone wanted to run at the coolest temp (160-180) and it was the common thought that the cooler, the better.
Unfortunately, that isn't the case. They mistakenly discovered that the hotter the engine, the better it performs (within reason), not just in emissions, but actually power and efficiency. Even with the engine having a carburetor, the warmer it is, the better it will run. Now, there is a fine line between too cold or too hot. Generally around 190-210* F is ideal, anything below, it will become inefficient. Anything above, youll start having overheating problems and exceeding the limitations of the coolant.
An engine running at or around those temperatures is the ideal temp for combustion and fuel atomization.
Now, with the thermostat, it does NOT primarily determine normal running temperature. It all falls into the cooling system itself. Radiator, fan, hoses, coolant passages, water pump flow, etc... A thermostat determines the "fine tuning" of the temperature (within 5-10*) and proper main flow rate. If a vehicle is run without a thermostat or an incorrect thermostat, this may cause more damage than good, in fact it may cause overheating. The coolant would be flowing too fast for proper heat transfer from the engine to the liquid, in turn, keeping the heat inside the cylinder and cylinder head (where all of the heat needs to escape). Plus, this a electronic fuel injection system. ALL electronic fuel injection systems (and some mechanical systems) use coolant temperature as a PRIMARY ECM input to determine fuel mixture. Too cold, it adds fuel too warm up to "normal operating temp". So if you have an engine designed and tuned to run at 200*F and the coolant temperature is at 160*, it will add fuel (richen the mixture). So, if its like that constantly, you will have a drop in fuel efficiency and potentially, after a while, throw a fault code and the vehicle will run at a default setting.
If you install a 180* thermostat in place of a 200* thermostat, at operating temp, the thermostat will open more than the factory thermostat would Causing a higher coolant flow rate, therefore potentially causing the above stated problem.
Back in the day (carburation), everyone wanted to run at the coolest temp (160-180) and it was the common thought that the cooler, the better.
Unfortunately, that isn't the case. They mistakenly discovered that the hotter the engine, the better it performs (within reason), not just in emissions, but actually power and efficiency. Even with the engine having a carburetor, the warmer it is, the better it will run. Now, there is a fine line between too cold or too hot. Generally around 190-210* F is ideal, anything below, it will become inefficient. Anything above, youll start having overheating problems and exceeding the limitations of the coolant.
An engine running at or around those temperatures is the ideal temp for combustion and fuel atomization.
Now, with the thermostat, it does NOT primarily determine normal running temperature. It all falls into the cooling system itself. Radiator, fan, hoses, coolant passages, water pump flow, etc... A thermostat determines the "fine tuning" of the temperature (within 5-10*) and proper main flow rate. If a vehicle is run without a thermostat or an incorrect thermostat, this may cause more damage than good, in fact it may cause overheating. The coolant would be flowing too fast for proper heat transfer from the engine to the liquid, in turn, keeping the heat inside the cylinder and cylinder head (where all of the heat needs to escape). Plus, this a electronic fuel injection system. ALL electronic fuel injection systems (and some mechanical systems) use coolant temperature as a PRIMARY ECM input to determine fuel mixture. Too cold, it adds fuel too warm up to "normal operating temp". So if you have an engine designed and tuned to run at 200*F and the coolant temperature is at 160*, it will add fuel (richen the mixture). So, if its like that constantly, you will have a drop in fuel efficiency and potentially, after a while, throw a fault code and the vehicle will run at a default setting.
If you install a 180* thermostat in place of a 200* thermostat, at operating temp, the thermostat will open more than the factory thermostat would Causing a higher coolant flow rate, therefore potentially causing the above stated problem.
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2014 Phatom Black 9C1 (Toy)
2000 VW Jetta TDI (Daily 420k miles)
2014 Phatom Black 9C1 (Toy)
2000 VW Jetta TDI (Daily 420k miles)