In preparation for a rear view camera install in the trunk key location I had to find an alternative mounting spot for the trunk key barrel. I could have eliminated it all together but like the option of a manual release if the electronics fail in any way especially since the batteries are in there. One security warning with this method: Someone could theoretically get into my trunk by taking off my bumper and getting to the cable and pulling it. Not as secure as having the barrel and cable behind sheet metal. So there is that.
Removal of the barrel from the factory location was easy with just a disconnecting of the cable end (pops out of holder arm) . Two 8mm nuts and an 8mm rear mounting screw. Pull cable through the holes in the trunk lid and keep all the rubber grommets and foam coverings on it as they will come in handy later.
Thought the area above the licence plate would be a good place for it. So took off the rear bumper and it looked like there would be enough clearance for the lock mechanism as long as I cut off some extremities to make it fit better.
Here is how I modified the key barrel. I first just cut off the rear plastic arm. Ended up cutting off more.
I then found in order to get the key barrel far enough away from the License plate so I could turn it I would have to get it further into the recess inside the bumper. That required removing some of the metal key barrel it's self. Also mounting it at an angle will allow the cable to line up straighter with the arm that holds it away from the barrel. I used a Dremmel reinforced cut off wheel and a hacksaw to accomplish.
Here is the result with more of the plastic and metal cut off at an angle.
You will then see at the front of the key barrel there are now 3 points that are protruding. Cut those off flat so the only thing protruding is the circular key cylinder it's self. (Sorry Did not get a pic of those)
So once you got your barrel and bracket how you want it cut a piece of cardboard to use as a template on the inside of the bumper pushed all the way to the inside edge of the bumper. Then pur your modified key barrel on there. Marking the holes is difficult because it is such a tight spot. So I just marked the edge of the plastic bracket on the cardboard then took it all out of the bumper. Lined up the bracket with my mark on the cardboard and then marked the center of the two mounting holes. Then I put a little grease on the face of chrome barrel area and pressed it onto the cardboard making sure to line up the mounting holes with my marks. This left a grease circle on my cardboard. I drew a circle around the grease residue. Wiped the grease away then made a X in the circle with my sharpie to find the approximate center of the hole. The key barrel hole does not seem to be perfectly on center to the mounting bolts. But the grease method makes sure you get the hole in the right place. Then take a sharp awl or pick to punch 3 holes in your template. One at each mounting bolt location and once for the center of the key barrel.
Now working on the outside of the bumper (painted side) flip the face of the template you have been working on upside down and put the proper edge toward the outside of the bumper. Make sure your orientation of the holes is correct by using the key barrel assembly and making sure the cable holding arm is pointing toward the passenger side of the car. Since at this point your bumper is on the ground (protected with a blanket) and upside down orientation can get confusing. Double check as you only get one shot at making these holes.
Once you got it how you want it and template taped in place take your sharp awl and punch through your template holes and then through the bumper using a hammer to get through the plastic bumper. So at this point you should have 3 hole like this:
Then get out your drill and bits. I had a really long (14 inch) 1/4 inch drill bit for the mounting holes. This made it easier to go straight into the bumper. Otherwise the body of the drill make it hard to get in there straight. For the center hole I use a 1 inch diameter hole cutting bit. Since the drill body got in the way I was not able to get it to go straight in but the angle was not enough to make much of a difference. I would say use your slimmest body drill when doing this so the holes are not at too much of an angle. Here is the result after the holes were cut.
Then put in your mounting screws. I am eventually going to change these to some low profile security Torx screws but use what ever looks good to you. I got the largest screws I could that would fit in the mounting bracket holes since these are the only things holding it secure.
Use some washers and nuts on the back. Looking at the pictures I am just realizing lock washers maybe a good idea in this situation in addition to the flat washers.
Cable Routing
Found a nice hole toward the passenger side of the car for the cable to go into and come out another hole and would line up with new mounting area. Thought of shortening the cable since I did not need such a long cable but decided against that once I saw I would just store the excess cable in the passenger side of the fender and over the wheel well. The oblong trunk grommet lines up pretty good at the first hole the cable goes through and the foam on the cable seals up the second hole the cable comes out of. Once you feed it in the first hole you will see the metal cable end in the second hole. I used some needle nose pliers to grab it and bring it out.
Inside trunk area - cable exiting trunk:
Excess cable stored above wheel well passenger side:
Cable Route Outside of car:
Finished Product
If you happen to have a really thick plate frame you want to keep on move the key barrel further out towards the edge to gain more room to turn the key. You can only go so far because of the mounting screw but you could probably gain some depth by rotating it a bit to get the center hole out farther from the plate.
