Suspension refresh, what additional parts are needed?

Suspension, brake, and hydraulic/electric steering discussion.
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indianajoe
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Joined: Mon Jul 11, 2016 9:12 pm
Location: South Bend, IN

Suspension refresh, what additional parts are needed?

Post by indianajoe »

I've got a 2011 ppv, rides like a board and sits too high so I'm looking into the newer ppv strut+ss spring swap, what else should I replace when I've got it torn apart?

I've heard the strut mounts collapse, whitelines? How worn would isolators be at 114k miles?
Navy Lifer
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Re: Suspension refresh, what additional parts are needed?

Post by Navy Lifer »

Definitely you will want to replace the upper (front) strut mount/bearing assemblies. Whiteline does seem to have a good following, and there is also a version from Super Pro--check the BMR Suspension website.

Background:
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viewtopic.php?f=18&t=730&hilit=Whitelin ... =10#p10328" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

When you say isolators, are you referring to the molded rubber parts that fit at top & bottom of the springs? If that's the case, it can't hurt to replace them.

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RedCentreBluey
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Re: Suspension refresh, what additional parts are needed?

Post by RedCentreBluey »

Unless your PPV's are different, there are no bottom 'isolators', certainly not in the Aussie cars. The top rubbers are probably ok, but the bearings may be loose.

When you pull the strut assemblies apart to refurbish, you will get a plethora of little steel balls goin everywhere, toss the bearings. I figure to use something like plumbers white Teflon dope tape to hold the bearing halves together for assembly, the tape is super thin but strong enough, and as the whole assembly goes together, the tape will become nothing.

I did once make bottom isolators by cutting up an old inner-tube, those guys are becoming hard to find too.

Replace the struts, they are the shock-absorber part, the springs will be fine unless you want to raise/lower or stiffen the front. there is also a white colored bump-stop at the top of the strut, under the top bush/bearing assembly

Inspect the Caster Arms that go from the front of the chassis back to the steering knuckle, the ball-joints operate in a shear action, and the ball joint studs can become bent, which can have the effect of increasing caster.

The lower control arms may also exhibit some stud-bending, but not as severely as the caster arms.

The rubber bushes in both arms can be replaced, but a complete arm assembly replacement may be quicker, and hence more cost effective.

The factory also specifies the use of new bolts at the pivot end whenever the arms are replaced, because of wear and stretch, and to allow for correct tensioning procedures

Swaybar D-Rubbers, and the Sway-bar links will be worth replacing too, they can become noisy and less effective
CrashTestDummy
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Location: Pearland, Texas

Re: Suspension refresh, what additional parts are needed?

Post by CrashTestDummy »

There are bottom rubber insulators on the springs on the US cars. I guess Americans whine about noise more than the Aussies. :lol:

And yes, get the front upper front strut mount parts and have them ready when you remove the strut, because you'll have bb's all over the place. I bought a lightly-used set of aftermarket struts, and those upper mounts were not included. After everything came apart, I was able to chase down all of the run-away bearings, clean them and put them back in the bearing plate, but was also able to get a pair of replacement upper mount kits from a local auto parts place. I put the bearing plate back together, just in case. Luckily, I was able to replace it the same day.
Gene Beaird,
Pearland, Texas
2012 Caprice 9C1
1992 B4C 1LE Camaro
2018 Tahoe PPV (her car)
1995 DGGM Impala SS
1985 Firebird - 310 LS1 C Prepared autocross car.
1980 Bluebird Wanderlodge
And some others
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