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PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2017 4:43 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 30, 2016 8:12 am
Posts: 442
Location: phx az
CrashTestDummy wrote:
s/c'd cav wrote:
ive got a b&m dipstick for sale , similar to the lokar

you can also use a oe dipstick from the trucks , it was on one of the g8 boards


Yes, this one:

http://www.newcaprice.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=1985


thats a custom one i believe , the chevy truck is longer

on my G8 i ran the deep b&m pan , which is a good 1 1/2" deeper than the camaro/truck deep pan , and only scraped it on driveways that looked like a small mountain (up and down in a short distance , and i think i only scraped it a few times learning at what angles to take the driveway


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2017 12:52 am 
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Location: Wisconsin
So I did the deep pan mod today and Lokar dipstick install, and I feel bad for all of you who put in a solid dipstick! It was easy, hardest part was mounting/away from manifold.

Anyway I do have one concern, I only put 6 quarts in, and it's reading full on the dipstick. It's not slipping, it's not jerking at all when I put it in gear (used to sometimes) and I even floored her in sport shift and performance mode with no issues.

Should I be worried? Did I not put enough fluid in? I really drained her too, down to just a drop every few seconds because I was doing the dipstick install. I'd estimate the amount of fluid that originally came out to be in the 4-5.5 qt range anyway. Wasn't as much as my Silverado pan drop (6 qts).

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2017 1:13 am 
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Location: Azusa,CA
Just to be sure the dip stick is accurate I would check the level using the level check plug at the bottom of the pan. That is of course assuming you are letting the fluid get to the proper temperature before you check it.

IF you are good at the level check plug then it is what it is.

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Steve Walker
Azusa, CA
'11 PPV 9C3 Huron White


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2017 1:15 am 
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smwalker wrote:
Just to be sure the dip stick is accurate I would check the level using the level check plug at the bottom of the pan. That is of course assuming you are letting the fluid get to the proper temperature before you check it.

IF you are good at the level check plug then it is what it is.



Is this on the same side as the dipstick or? And what size head is the plug? 15 or 14, I noticed the drain is 14 for whatever reason. She was at op temp and went for a quick spin (up to 80 and about a half mile), parked on level concrete and checked.

Last question, with that check plug, do I still check when hot and at operating temperature or can it be cold?

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2017 1:26 am 
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Location: Azusa,CA
Fudgehog wrote:
smwalker wrote:
Just to be sure the dip stick is accurate I would check the level using the level check plug at the bottom of the pan. That is of course assuming you are letting the fluid get to the proper temperature before you check it.

IF you are good at the level check plug then it is what it is.



Is this on the same side as the dipstick or? And what size head is the plug? 15 or 14, I noticed the drain is 14 for whatever reason. She was at op temp and went for a quick spin (up to 80 and about a half mile), parked on level concrete and checked.

Last question, with that check plug, do I still check when hot and at operating temperature or can it be cold?


Check plug is at the bottom of the pan. Pic here:
Image

That is not a drain plug it's only purpose is to check the level of the fluid.

Always check for proper level with fluid at operating temp. You can check the temp by using the engineering mode of the car. I will quote from the Car modding site : (this is for 11-13's only I belive, 14+ have the option on the regular menu)

The next step involves entering the engineering menu on the instrument cluster to monitor the transmission fluid temperature, starting the engine, and cycling the transmission gears.

1. With the ignition switch in the Off Position, hold down the Left Hand scroll wheel on the steering wheel.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the On position.
3. The Instrument Cluster should now display the Engineering Menu.
4. Using the scroll wheel, scroll down to Transmission Sump Temperature.
5. The Instrument will now display the current Transmission sump temperature
(Which when cold will read roughly 20*C).
6. Start the Engine.
7. Pressing firmly on the Brake pedal, shift the transmission in to reverse gear and wait 15 seconds.
8. Still pressing firmly on the Brake pedal, shift the transmission in to drive gear and wait 15 seconds.
9. Continue the above steps until the transmission sump temperature reaches 30*C~40*C (For Cadillac Sump)
or 40*C ~50*C (when using the original Holden Sump).
10. Once the desired transmission temperature is reached, switch off the engine.
11. Jack up the vehicle and remove the transmission sum check fluid plug.
12. Ensure that you get a constant trickle (Not droplets) of transmission fluid draining out of the transmission.
* If this is the case, then refit the transmission sump plug.
* If the fluid is dripping out, then add further transmission fluid until a steady trickle of transmission fluid flows out of the sump plug.
* If transmission fluid is flowing out through the drain plug, then allow the excess fluid to drain, until a steady trickle of fluid is flowing from the sump plug.
13. Once you are happy with the transmission fluid level, refit the transmission sump plug and the rubber transmission filler plug.
14. Start the vehicle, and inspect for any leaks around the transmission sump gasket.
15. Take the vehicle for short test drive, ensuring that the transmission is shifting correctly. Once finished check the transmission sump for leaks.

And I should add this procedure is easiest to do when the car is on a lift and level. I have a suspicion jacking up a car from one side or just the front to do this check might throw off the level.

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Steve Walker
Azusa, CA
'11 PPV 9C3 Huron White


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2017 1:33 am 
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Well that's easy enough, op temp, level surface, and pull the "sump" plug which is basically a drain plug. Check the flow of fluid. Okay, thanks.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2017 1:37 am 
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Fudgehog wrote:
pull the "sump" plug which is basically a drain plug. Check the flow of fluid. Okay, thanks.


A drain plug in that it only drains out the incorrect amount that is overfilled. If nothing comes out then it's low. Then some racers like to add about 1/2 a quart more as they say it does not hurt and get better performance. not sure what to think about that though.

Good Luck.

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Steve Walker
Azusa, CA
'11 PPV 9C3 Huron White


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2017 1:40 am 
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Thanks! I will see if I can get on a lift otherwise I will follow those instructions tomorrow morning.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2017 2:49 am 
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Just checked out engineering mode, will do again in the morning. But it's been a couple hours since I've driven, coolant temp is reading 46 C, and trans sump is reading 46 C as well. Then when I started it, it quickly went from 37 C to 41C. Tomorrow will tell. Lol

For whatever reason, CEL isn't on but my scanner is showing U0100. Car is fine though.

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Last edited by Fudgehog on Tue Oct 03, 2017 5:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2017 2:53 am 
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Location: Azusa,CA
Fudgehog wrote:

Forever reason, CEL isn't on but my scanner is showing U0100. Car is fine though.


Check engine light only comes on with P codes. U codes deal with communication between modules and such. Nothin to fret about.

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Azusa, CA
'11 PPV 9C3 Huron White


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