Trans R&R for converter install
Trans R&R for converter install
I am getting ready to install a Circle D torque converter. Does anyone know if you can drop the trans without removing headers? My plan is to use tall jack stands, remove exhaust from header back, drop the driveshaft, do all the usual R&R stuff, drop the trans down, swap converter, then reinstall. Not sure if I need to remove my headers. Also any other gotchas? I was reading on the SS forum where someone suggested dropping the rear crossmember down to angle the trans/motor combo to allow easier access to trans to engine top bolts from the top of the motor. Otherwise looks relatively straight forward. Also is the motor decently balanced without the trans or will I need to support the back of the motor with a cherrypicker so it doesn't drop?
2014 Caprice PPV, 6.0L, BTR Stage 2 Cam, 3.45, 3" exhaust, Rotofab intake, Chris Henry tuned, future LSA....
Re: Trans R&R for converter install
Never done it but some guys use 3 feet of extensions to get to the upper bellhousing bolts when doing trucks while tilting it back instead of trying to get to them from the top
2011 Caprice PPV, former RCMP test vehicle, never put into service
Build Thread: http://www.newcaprice.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2419
Build Thread: http://www.newcaprice.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2419
Re: Trans R&R for converter install
Pull the plastic cowl out and it will give you great access to the top bolts. Can’t help you on the header question as all I have are bone stock cars, DOD and all.
Re: Trans R&R for converter install
Thanks for the replies. Working on lining up renting a trans lift too. I live about a miles from a tool rental shot that has a nice trans lift I can use for the day.
2014 Caprice PPV, 6.0L, BTR Stage 2 Cam, 3.45, 3" exhaust, Rotofab intake, Chris Henry tuned, future LSA....
Re: Trans R&R for converter install
I would unbolt the shift linkage from the transmission and loosen the adjusting bolt to allow the rod to slide out. I have never tried to remove the plastic/rubber bushing at the shifter, but from other post I have seen, the plastic pieces are pricey for a chunk of plastic.
Re: Trans R&R for converter install
So I did the converter install over the weekend. It isn't a terrible job as long as you don't mind laying on cardboard for hours at a time. LOL. Pretty straight forward. Several things I thought were helpful....
-I used a 13mm flex head ratcheting wrench to reach the two bolts from the top. Remove the trans crossmember and tilt trans/engine combo as needed to get room. I found that easier then trying to use 3 ft of extensions from underneath.
- I needed an inverse star socket to remove the cooler tubes. I have a set but not sure if others do.
- The passenger header had to come out. Can't remove starter with it still there. Driver side header I didn't touch.
- I just unbolted the shift linkage from the trans and left it hanging. That was easy.
- The trans would not separate from the engine. I had to heat up the dowel pins with a MAP torch then hammer in a chisel on each side to get it apart. I kept thinking I missed a bolt because no matter how much pushing, tugging, and hammering it wouldn't budge. I had to chisel them apart. Afterwards I noticed corrosion on both mating surfaces which I cleaned up and use an inhibitor for future disassembly. I love Northern cars! Sigh.... 8 bolts total. 2 on bottom, 2 on each side, one on top center, and one on top driver side.
- A trans jack is a must. I rented one for the weekend for $40. Highly recommend. I dropped the trans, slid the jack back about a foot, removed torque converter, installed new converter, pushed trans back forward, and then raised back up to mate to engine.
- I had to use a second jack on the engine to help align the engine/trans together. I didn't need my engine hoist to support engine.
- I lost hardly any fluid. Maybe several tablespoons from the cooler lines and some when I pulled off the converter. I just capped the cooler lines when off. Only fluid I had to replace what was in the torque converter. (I just did a fluid change recently and didn't feel the need to drop the pan).
- Two clunks when installing converter. Rotate around to get each clunk. Need gap of 1/8 - 3/16" between flywheel and converter. If too big then shim bolts with provided washers. Mine was at 0.175" and I did not need washers.
-I used a 13mm flex head ratcheting wrench to reach the two bolts from the top. Remove the trans crossmember and tilt trans/engine combo as needed to get room. I found that easier then trying to use 3 ft of extensions from underneath.
- I needed an inverse star socket to remove the cooler tubes. I have a set but not sure if others do.
- The passenger header had to come out. Can't remove starter with it still there. Driver side header I didn't touch.
- I just unbolted the shift linkage from the trans and left it hanging. That was easy.
- The trans would not separate from the engine. I had to heat up the dowel pins with a MAP torch then hammer in a chisel on each side to get it apart. I kept thinking I missed a bolt because no matter how much pushing, tugging, and hammering it wouldn't budge. I had to chisel them apart. Afterwards I noticed corrosion on both mating surfaces which I cleaned up and use an inhibitor for future disassembly. I love Northern cars! Sigh.... 8 bolts total. 2 on bottom, 2 on each side, one on top center, and one on top driver side.
- A trans jack is a must. I rented one for the weekend for $40. Highly recommend. I dropped the trans, slid the jack back about a foot, removed torque converter, installed new converter, pushed trans back forward, and then raised back up to mate to engine.
- I had to use a second jack on the engine to help align the engine/trans together. I didn't need my engine hoist to support engine.
- I lost hardly any fluid. Maybe several tablespoons from the cooler lines and some when I pulled off the converter. I just capped the cooler lines when off. Only fluid I had to replace what was in the torque converter. (I just did a fluid change recently and didn't feel the need to drop the pan).
- Two clunks when installing converter. Rotate around to get each clunk. Need gap of 1/8 - 3/16" between flywheel and converter. If too big then shim bolts with provided washers. Mine was at 0.175" and I did not need washers.
2014 Caprice PPV, 6.0L, BTR Stage 2 Cam, 3.45, 3" exhaust, Rotofab intake, Chris Henry tuned, future LSA....
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- Joined: Fri May 28, 2021 2:47 pm
Re: Trans R&R for converter install
Nice work! Hope you remembered the blue loctite on the converter bolts. I must have forgotten it last time I did mine because when I pulled the engine last week my converter bolts were halfway unscrewed already. Talk about a ticking time bomb.
2013 PPV Phantom black 1,077 RWHP 1,015 RWTQ 9.9@148
LS3 stroker 417ci, Callies crank w/ Malhe pistons & Darton sleeves. 11.5:1
Procharger F1a94. 22 psi boost E85
Water/Meth + 180hp N20
BTR custom cam 235/257 .638/.629 116, BTR shaft rockers Johnson 2126 lifters
BTR Trinity intake Kooks headers w/ Solo exhaust 3"
CDT Level 4 trans build w triple disc TC
Holley 120lb injectors
MT ET Street R 305/45/R18 on 10" widened OEM wheels.
LS3 stroker 417ci, Callies crank w/ Malhe pistons & Darton sleeves. 11.5:1
Procharger F1a94. 22 psi boost E85
Water/Meth + 180hp N20
BTR custom cam 235/257 .638/.629 116, BTR shaft rockers Johnson 2126 lifters
BTR Trinity intake Kooks headers w/ Solo exhaust 3"
CDT Level 4 trans build w triple disc TC
Holley 120lb injectors
MT ET Street R 305/45/R18 on 10" widened OEM wheels.
Re: Trans R&R for converter install
Yikes! Yes I did loctite the bolts. I am pretty good about torqueing to spec and using lubrication or loctite when appropriate.
2014 Caprice PPV, 6.0L, BTR Stage 2 Cam, 3.45, 3" exhaust, Rotofab intake, Chris Henry tuned, future LSA....
Re: Trans R&R for converter install
I started working on cars in my driveway with my Dad, and then friends back in the 70s. I'm too old, too stiff and too sore to do it now. About 10 years ago I built a shop with a lift. Best money I ever spent. I don't work as a tech any more, but I still fool around with cars at home. I've built probably a dozen transmissions so far this year (way higher than I normally do), and there's no way I could do it laying on cardboard. Not now!
Glad you got the converter in. How do you like the converter? If I have to rebuild mine I'll certainly look at those Circle Ds.
Joe
Re: Trans R&R for converter install
I'm very anxious to hear how the car feels to you. Circle D has been on my radar. The prices have gone up considerably since I looked last https://www.circledspecialties.com/pro- ... &orderBy=5. Which stall did you get? Does it lock up nice?
I think I have a trans jack?! Dang I want a lift though. My buddy's lift has ramps with the ability to lift corners (extensions with bottle jacks). The alternative is the "4 arms". "Ramps" version does take up more room in your garage but makes car "storage" easier (can park underneath a car).
I think I have a trans jack?! Dang I want a lift though. My buddy's lift has ramps with the ability to lift corners (extensions with bottle jacks). The alternative is the "4 arms". "Ramps" version does take up more room in your garage but makes car "storage" easier (can park underneath a car).
Current: 2013 9C3, deeper trans pan, 12VoltSolutions Remote, Class III hitch, Android Auto capable radio