New Caprice - Discussion forums

lonewolfatl wrote:

robbyburty wrote:<SNIP>
The only thing I’m wondering right now is if there is a quality AFM delete kit with the gaskets, valley cover, bolts, and some quality lifters. Or if I should just source all the parts individually?

You can go two routes with this; try to get the absolute best deal on each and every part by ordering it yourself, or paying a bit for a complete 'kit' that has everything needed, PLUS a cam that's selected based on your specifications/wishes, by talking with one of the many companies that sell 'kits' for the LS* to replace the DOD setup. Texas Speed, Maryland Speed and I think Ligenfelter can do that for you.

You'll still have to get the ECU updated to eliminate the DOD feature, and tune to the new parts.

CrashTestDummy wrote:Maryland Speed

Whatever you do, do not order one single part from Maryland Speed. Besides that fact that it's not where you should get engine advice from, there are hundreds of negative posts about the company and owner on multiple forums. The guy is a total scum bag and people are finally starting to figure it out. Here are just a few threads. There are so many out there. Just do a search if this is not enough evidence.

http://www.g8board.com/forums/11-lounge ... iting.html
http://forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.php?t=46314
http://www.ctsvowners.com/forum/92-comp ... speed.html

Texas Speed and Tooley are fine companies.

Just my two cents...
I went with a combination of TSP (Texas Speed and Performance) DOD delete complete kit, minus the stage 1 cam. I used the 2015 Z28 LS7 factory headers. I have HP Tuners for an interface. I rely on Chris Henry Motorsports (Chris is a member on the forum here) for tuning and advise. I ended up with a Brian Tooley Racing Stage one cam. Milder than the TSP Stage 1. My motivating factors were: 1) not needing to upgrade my torque converter. 2) Chris was very familiar with the BTR stage 1 cam. For me, researching a tuner that has knowledge of the camshaft I was installing was a prerequisite. There are plenty of tuners out there. I would suggest you ask a tuner if they have a history of tuning the camshaft you want or decide on. Also, decide upon the software that you want to use. That will help determine a tuner also. Some are HP tuners only or EFI Live only.
FYI, last Christmas, some of the companies that offer DOD delete kits had holiday specials...

Regards,

Maurice

So I’ve been in contact with TX Speed and they suggested a stage 3 cam at 3000 rpm stall. In my other ear I have a friend who repairs transmissions who says I should keep it at around 2500 for drivability. Is 3000 too much for street use?

lonewolfatl wrote:So I’ve been in contact with TX Speed and they suggested a stage 3 cam at 3000 rpm stall. In my other ear I have a friend who repairs transmissions who says I should keep it at around 2500 for drivability. Is 3000 too much for street use?

You can drive any stall converter on the street provided you have a big enough trans cooler. There is no magic number where a converter becomes unstreetable. The actual amount of slippage and reduction in gas mileage is personal preference. Nobody but you will know what you are willing to put up with.

lonewolfatl wrote:So I’ve been in contact with TX Speed and they suggested a stage 3 cam at 3000 rpm stall. In my other ear I have a friend who repairs transmissions who says I should keep it at around 2500 for drivability. Is 3000 too much for street use?

That's really subjective AND it depends. We have a 3K stall converter in our 96 SS. The car feels 'heavy' in normal street driving, requiring more throttle application than you'd think is necessary to get the car rolling. After that, though, it's fine, especially when you hammer the throttle open. The car really comes alive and jumps off the line. The converter also seems to soften the hit to the tires and suspension, letting everything kind of wrap up together, and work in concert for good launches.

We have a 2800 RPM converter in our 3rd Gen Firebird, and frankly, it's not enough. It's a 5L LS1 autocross car, and you still have to really feather the throttle to get the car moving. That, or you power-brake the car at the starting line. I'm guessing the lower torque of the 5.0L engine contributes to that.

So it's very subjective, and depends on the individual vehicle. I think it's a bit much for a 100% street car. A 2500 RPM stall and a 3.27 diff might be a better combination. But I don't know how stout that cam choice is. If it has just a bit of lope, and about a 1000 RPM idle, I'd think 2500 would be fine, but that's just me. I drive F-body cars and ex-police vehicles, so I put up with a lot.

Yeah, but generally speaking, installing a lower stall converter than a cam wants only hurts driveability and performance. There is no benefit. If you don't want such a high stall, you are shopping for too big of a cam. Tone everything down (cam, converter, and gears) and you will have a package that drives better and goes faster than a miss-matched combo.

Ok looks like I’m going to go with a stage 1 cam, specs 225/236 .629/.615 114LSA. It’s sounding like the stage 3 would be more than I’d want.

Pursuit wrote:Just my two cents...
I went with a combination of TSP (Texas Speed and Performance) DOD delete complete kit, minus the stage 1 cam. I used the 2015 Z28 LS7 factory headers. I have HP Tuners for an interface. I rely on Chris Henry Motorsports (Chris is a member on the forum here) for tuning and advise. I ended up with a Brian Tooley Racing Stage one cam. Milder than the TSP Stage 1. My motivating factors were: 1) not needing to upgrade my torque converter. 2) Chris was very familiar with the BTR stage 1 cam. For me, researching a tuner that has knowledge of the camshaft I was installing was a prerequisite. There are plenty of tuners out there. I would suggest you ask a tuner if they have a history of tuning the camshaft you want or decide on. Also, decide upon the software that you want to use. That will help determine a tuner also. Some are HP tuners only or EFI Live only.
FYI, last Christmas, some of the companies that offer DOD delete kits had holiday specials...

Regards,

Maurice

I have ordered the BTR Stage 1 cam, 221/228 112+2 How were your results? I am also running Rotofab and Kooks long tubes.

Hey guys, I'm compiling a shopping list for the cam swap and cant quite get a straight answer on push rod length. Comp cams says I need to do the geometry? What exactly are they referring to, rocker angle ? At full lift? Any help would be great.
And since you mentioned Converters I was gonna stay around 2400/2600 but at cruising speed I'm taching around 2200 at 70 mph. With 3.45 rears. So On long trips I'll always be slipping, is are oem cooler sufficient?