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PostPosted: Tue Nov 14, 2017 3:57 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 07, 2015 8:31 pm
Posts: 1416
Location: Pearland, Texas
lonewolfatl wrote:
robbyburty wrote:
<SNIP>
The only thing I’m wondering right now is if there is a quality AFM delete kit with the gaskets, valley cover, bolts, and some quality lifters. Or if I should just source all the parts individually?


You can go two routes with this; try to get the absolute best deal on each and every part by ordering it yourself, or paying a bit for a complete 'kit' that has everything needed, PLUS a cam that's selected based on your specifications/wishes, by talking with one of the many companies that sell 'kits' for the LS* to replace the DOD setup. Texas Speed, Maryland Speed and I think Ligenfelter can do that for you.

You'll still have to get the ECU updated to eliminate the DOD feature, and tune to the new parts.

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Gene Beaird,
Pearland, Texas
2012 Caprice 9C1
1992 B4C 1LE Camaro
2010 Tahoe PPV (her car)
1995 DGGM Impala SS
1996 BBB Impala SS (11-second DD)
1985 Firebird - 310 LS1 C Prepared autocross car.
And some others
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 14, 2017 4:09 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 09, 2015 5:55 pm
Posts: 232
CrashTestDummy wrote:
Maryland Speed


Whatever you do, do not order one single part from Maryland Speed. Besides that fact that it's not where you should get engine advice from, there are hundreds of negative posts about the company and owner on multiple forums. The guy is a total scum bag and people are finally starting to figure it out. Here are just a few threads. There are so many out there. Just do a search if this is not enough evidence.

http://www.g8board.com/forums/11-lounge/269441-maryland-speed-who-else-has-been-waiting.html
http://forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.php?t=46314
http://www.ctsvowners.com/forum/92-complaints-corner/110833-anyone-else-ever-had-any-problems-maryland-speed.html

Texas Speed and Tooley are fine companies.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 14, 2017 6:19 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 23, 2013 8:39 pm
Posts: 584
Location: Omaha, NE area
Just my two cents...
I went with a combination of TSP (Texas Speed and Performance) DOD delete complete kit, minus the stage 1 cam. I used the 2015 Z28 LS7 factory headers. I have HP Tuners for an interface. I rely on Chris Henry Motorsports (Chris is a member on the forum here) for tuning and advise. I ended up with a Brian Tooley Racing Stage one cam. Milder than the TSP Stage 1. My motivating factors were: 1) not needing to upgrade my torque converter. 2) Chris was very familiar with the BTR stage 1 cam. For me, researching a tuner that has knowledge of the camshaft I was installing was a prerequisite. There are plenty of tuners out there. I would suggest you ask a tuner if they have a history of tuning the camshaft you want or decide on. Also, decide upon the software that you want to use. That will help determine a tuner also. Some are HP tuners only or EFI Live only.
FYI, last Christmas, some of the companies that offer DOD delete kits had holiday specials...

Regards,

Maurice

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Maurice Sheil

mhsheil@gmail.com

2011 Caprice Phantom Black 9C3
1995 9C1 Caprice
1986 Caprice Estate wagon
1996 GMC Sierra C1500
1974 SJ Grand Prix 455 well optioned with factory moon roof


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2017 7:00 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 10, 2017 1:21 am
Posts: 7
So I’ve been in contact with TX Speed and they suggested a stage 3 cam at 3000 rpm stall. In my other ear I have a friend who repairs transmissions who says I should keep it at around 2500 for drivability. Is 3000 too much for street use?


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2017 8:16 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 09, 2015 5:55 pm
Posts: 232
lonewolfatl wrote:
So I’ve been in contact with TX Speed and they suggested a stage 3 cam at 3000 rpm stall. In my other ear I have a friend who repairs transmissions who says I should keep it at around 2500 for drivability. Is 3000 too much for street use?


You can drive any stall converter on the street provided you have a big enough trans cooler. There is no magic number where a converter becomes unstreetable. The actual amount of slippage and reduction in gas mileage is personal preference. Nobody but you will know what you are willing to put up with.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2017 8:20 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 07, 2015 8:31 pm
Posts: 1416
Location: Pearland, Texas
lonewolfatl wrote:
So I’ve been in contact with TX Speed and they suggested a stage 3 cam at 3000 rpm stall. In my other ear I have a friend who repairs transmissions who says I should keep it at around 2500 for drivability. Is 3000 too much for street use?


That's really subjective AND it depends. We have a 3K stall converter in our 96 SS. The car feels 'heavy' in normal street driving, requiring more throttle application than you'd think is necessary to get the car rolling. After that, though, it's fine, especially when you hammer the throttle open. The car really comes alive and jumps off the line. The converter also seems to soften the hit to the tires and suspension, letting everything kind of wrap up together, and work in concert for good launches.

We have a 2800 RPM converter in our 3rd Gen Firebird, and frankly, it's not enough. It's a 5L LS1 autocross car, and you still have to really feather the throttle to get the car moving. That, or you power-brake the car at the starting line. I'm guessing the lower torque of the 5.0L engine contributes to that.

So it's very subjective, and depends on the individual vehicle. I think it's a bit much for a 100% street car. A 2500 RPM stall and a 3.27 diff might be a better combination. But I don't know how stout that cam choice is. If it has just a bit of lope, and about a 1000 RPM idle, I'd think 2500 would be fine, but that's just me. I drive F-body cars and ex-police vehicles, so I put up with a lot. :mrgreen:

_________________
Gene Beaird,
Pearland, Texas
2012 Caprice 9C1
1992 B4C 1LE Camaro
2010 Tahoe PPV (her car)
1995 DGGM Impala SS
1996 BBB Impala SS (11-second DD)
1985 Firebird - 310 LS1 C Prepared autocross car.
And some others
Do YOU have my SPID?


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2017 8:43 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 09, 2015 5:55 pm
Posts: 232
Yeah, but generally speaking, installing a lower stall converter than a cam wants only hurts driveability and performance. There is no benefit. If you don't want such a high stall, you are shopping for too big of a cam. Tone everything down (cam, converter, and gears) and you will have a package that drives better and goes faster than a miss-matched combo.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2017 10:37 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 10, 2017 1:21 am
Posts: 7
Ok looks like I’m going to go with a stage 1 cam, specs 225/236 .629/.615 114LSA. It’s sounding like the stage 3 would be more than I’d want.


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