Trailer hitch

Caprice and GM-related general tech topics. Questions & topics on vehicle tuning, HP Tuners use, etc.....
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storm9c1
Posts: 418
Joined: Wed Mar 27, 2013 11:47 pm
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

Re: Trailer hitch

Post by storm9c1 » Sun Oct 18, 2020 7:27 am

GammaFlat wrote:
Thu Oct 15, 2020 2:50 am
I'm not sure if I love or hate the concept. The posting on FB talks about plate removal or hinged plate. I assume that the hitch being relatively higher is good from a leverage standpoint.
Obstructing or removing the plate does seem to be a problem. I guess the mods to your bumper would be less obvious. They speak of a template so I assume that means some drilling is required. I'm intrigued by the concept. Maybe hanging your plate out of the trunk (like car dealers do) would work.
I feel pretty comfortable the drive-train will "take it".
Interesting. Wonder why they chose that design. Looking at the link you provided, I suspect a minor offset revision could get that hitch below the license plate.

If you look at the beginning pages of this thread, you will notice that the Holden "Towbar" that I installed is offset just enough so the hitch sits below the license plate. Unsure why this new hitch uses a design that will render the stock plate useless while towing a trailer. Or heck, even using a bike rack. If they want to make it stealth, it can be below the license plate, and inset with a plastic door over the lower plastic valance panel.

And yes, the drivetrain can take towing a small boat just fine. ;-)
It never felt like anything was there.

There was one time when I did notice one small glitch towing at very low speeds (5-10MPH) on gravel going down a small grade... the ABS kept activating for no reason. Unsure why the car decided to do that at such low speeds. The tires were not slipping (I had the windows down and heard nothing from the tires). It just felt like some programming glitch with the ABS. Never happened again.
Tom (AKA: Storm)
2011 Caprice 9C3: L77, 8K miles, first-owner, purchased July 2011.
1995 Caprice 9C1: LT1, 178K miles, summer car.
1995 Impala SS: LT1, 21K miles.
1995 Caprice Wagon: LT1, 62K miles.
1995 Caprice Wagon: LT1, 128K miles. Rust In Pieces
1994 Caprice 9C1: LT1, beater winter car.
1969 Chevy C30: 383ci stroker, 4L80E, rollback car hauler.
1972 Chrysler Newport: 400ci big block, survivor 27K miles, 2-door hardtop.
1969 Dodge Charger: 383ci big block.

DonutCruiser12
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Jun 17, 2019 2:21 am

Re: Trailer hitch

Post by DonutCruiser12 » Mon Oct 19, 2020 3:40 am

I've been lurking on this post for a while and recently also bought a hitch from Holmart and had it shipped over. Installation was super easy as stated earlier. I still haven't wired up lights and will probably let the local trailer shop wire a converter in.

I have a 2012, and got lucky with my cutting of the receiver tube in the bumper. It looks factory, and I'll be testing it soon pulling a small camper.

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storm9c1
Posts: 418
Joined: Wed Mar 27, 2013 11:47 pm
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

Re: Trailer hitch

Post by storm9c1 » Mon Oct 19, 2020 4:55 pm

DonutCruiser12 wrote:
Mon Oct 19, 2020 3:40 am
I've been lurking on this post for a while and recently also bought a hitch from Holmart and had it shipped over. Installation was super easy as stated earlier. I still haven't wired up lights and will probably let the local trailer shop wire a converter in.

I have a 2012, and got lucky with my cutting of the receiver tube in the bumper. It looks factory, and I'll be testing it soon pulling a small camper.
Do you need a 4-pin or 7-pin harness?

The 4-pin is easier if you know some electronics. How good are you with wiring? Do you have basic wiring skills, multimeter and test light?

All you need is three automotive relays. Tap all three relays into the harness going into each light. Right, Left, and parking. I can guide you through it if you have the skills. Otherwise, yes, it might be best to let a shop handle it.
Tom (AKA: Storm)
2011 Caprice 9C3: L77, 8K miles, first-owner, purchased July 2011.
1995 Caprice 9C1: LT1, 178K miles, summer car.
1995 Impala SS: LT1, 21K miles.
1995 Caprice Wagon: LT1, 62K miles.
1995 Caprice Wagon: LT1, 128K miles. Rust In Pieces
1994 Caprice 9C1: LT1, beater winter car.
1969 Chevy C30: 383ci stroker, 4L80E, rollback car hauler.
1972 Chrysler Newport: 400ci big block, survivor 27K miles, 2-door hardtop.
1969 Dodge Charger: 383ci big block.

User avatar
storm9c1
Posts: 418
Joined: Wed Mar 27, 2013 11:47 pm
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

Re: Trailer hitch

Post by storm9c1 » Mon Oct 19, 2020 5:38 pm

If you decide to wire your own 4-pin, here's the Bill of Materials for building a converter/isolator circuit and wiring up the harness:
  • 3x generic 4-pin or 5-pin automotive relays, 12V, usually rated for 25-40A
  • 1x fuse and holder, 15A
  • 1x generic automotive switch, non-lighted (optional)
  • 1x pack of 1/4" female spade terminals (for the relays)
  • 1x pack of quick wire taps (optional, I prefer real splices)
  • 1x generic 4-pin trailer kit, preferably with embedded LED status lights
  • 1x 14-16ga wire, red, 10+ feet in length
  • 1x 14-16ga wire, green, 10+ feet in length
  • 1x 14-16ga wire, brown, 10+ feet in length
  • 1x 14-16ga wire, black, 10+ feet in length
  • 1x 14-16ga wire, white, 10+ feet in length
  • 1x 14-16ga wire, yellow, 10+ feet in length
  • 1x roll electrical tape (I prefer shrink tubing)
(if you need a source for any of the above parts, let me know)

Tools:
  • Wire cutter/stripper
  • Terminal crimper
  • Test light and/or digital multimeter
  • A brain, after a good night's sleep, that understands wiring
Skills required:
  • Wiring
  • Basic knowledge of automotive electrical (ie: difference between ground and +12V)
  • Basic understanding of how relays work
  • Troubleshooting with a DVM and/or test light
No tools are listed for drilling any holes since that will not be in the scope of the wiring. With the bumper off, you can run wires through the existing body plugs. Or you can choose to run the flat 4-pin wire out the trunk lip when needed, and stow it when not needed.

The switch is optional. If you use it, mount it where you want. The trunk lining is rigid enough to mount a lightweight switch directly in the lining near a corner. If you don't use a switch, the relays will always be activated (clicking) with brake, turn signals, and parking lights, regardless if you are towing a trailer. You may or may not care about that. Most newer modules used by trailer shops ($$$$) are solid state and contain no relays.

I may do a writeup when I have time. It won't have pictures because I did mine many years ago, earlier in this thread.

If I don't get around to a writeup, just ask here and I will try my best to guide your through it. I won't have the time to answer basic wiring questions. This project requires an existing skill level. If you never touched wiring before, there are guides and videos on the interwebs for learning automotive wiring. Not responsible for blowing up your car.
Tom (AKA: Storm)
2011 Caprice 9C3: L77, 8K miles, first-owner, purchased July 2011.
1995 Caprice 9C1: LT1, 178K miles, summer car.
1995 Impala SS: LT1, 21K miles.
1995 Caprice Wagon: LT1, 62K miles.
1995 Caprice Wagon: LT1, 128K miles. Rust In Pieces
1994 Caprice 9C1: LT1, beater winter car.
1969 Chevy C30: 383ci stroker, 4L80E, rollback car hauler.
1972 Chrysler Newport: 400ci big block, survivor 27K miles, 2-door hardtop.
1969 Dodge Charger: 383ci big block.

GammaFlat
Posts: 137
Joined: Mon Sep 21, 2020 2:26 pm
Location: NW Indiana

Re: Trailer hitch

Post by GammaFlat » Fri Dec 04, 2020 12:04 am

Tom, Great post! I may need to "steal" your ideas. Thanks.

Does anyone know how a hitch like this would attach to the frame? Does it go under the frame or "inside"? I was under my car the other day and I had a hard time imagining how it would "mount". I am very excited about the ability to have a Class III-ish hitch on my '13 9C3.

John
Current: 2013 9C3, deeper trans pan, 12VoltSolutions Remote, Class III hitch, Android Auto capable radio

s/c'd cav
Posts: 1102
Joined: Mon May 30, 2016 8:12 am
Location: PHOENIX AZ

Re: Trailer hitch

Post by s/c'd cav » Fri Dec 04, 2020 12:19 am

GammaFlat wrote:
Fri Dec 04, 2020 12:04 am
Tom, Great post! I may need to "steal" your ideas. Thanks.

Does anyone know how a hitch like this would attach to the frame? Does it go under the frame or "inside"? I was under my car the other day and I had a hard time imagining how it would "mount". I am very excited about the ability to have a Class III-ish hitch on my '13 9C3.

John
most replace the bumper beam , so they slip into the frame rails

IPF Racing
Posts: 8
Joined: Wed Oct 02, 2019 2:53 pm

Re: Trailer hitch

Post by IPF Racing » Fri Dec 04, 2020 1:20 am

GammaFlat wrote:
Thu Oct 15, 2020 12:14 am
There seems to be someone near Detroit that is making or distributing 2 inch receiver hitches for Caprices and SSs (possibly G8s). Info in Facebook "Chevy Caprice PPV - Owners & Fans" section. Zachary Watts is the poster. $350 plus shipping. Some notables: behind license plate, A500 1/4" steel tubing, 4600lb capacity,
If there's anything inappropriate about this posting, please delete/modify as needed.
John
Thanks for the shoutout, I don't frequent the forum much, but I'm happy to see the hitch made it here. I do have 8 ready to ship out even though I had to up the price a little bit due to some added hardware I'm providing. To answer a few questions, it does replace the bumper beam so its slides into the frame rails and uses the bumper beam mounting points (this is the same way the GM tow package works). As for the license plate, I have a generic flip-up plate mount from Amazon (common on Wranglers) that seems to work well. I will be taking more pictures at my shop tomorrow and posting them on Facebook. For now here is the quick install video I put together.

Feel free to shoot me any questions you may have! I will be driving from Detroit to NC the Monday before Christmas and back to Detroit the weekend after New Years if anyone wants to save on shipping and lives along that route!

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